Beading Basics: Beaded Fringe

A neat way to embellish jewelry, quilts, ATCs or clothing is by adding beaded fringe.

The easiest way to add beads to anything is by purchasing trim with bead fringe already made. The trim can be sewn on, glued, or attached to Velcro (in case you need to remove it to launder or clean the beaded object). Of course the downside of this method is that you can't always match your original piece, and it seems a bit like cheating, right? :) And it also can end up being very pricey!

Thread & Needles

I would advise you to use beading thread for beaded fringe instead of sewing thread. First of all, glass beads are notorious for occasionally having sharp holes, especially bugle beads, and sewing thread is not made for that kind of wear. Also since beading thread is heavier, it tends to hang more nicely and not stretch as much.

First condition your thread (I recommend Nymo) with beeswax or Thread Heaven to reduce snarling and stretching. To condition thread, pull it through the beeswax or across the Thread Heaven to lightly coat the strand.

Then string on a beading needle small enough to fit through your smallest beads. Dritz makes short beading needles that are easier to use for this type of beading and they are available in most fabric and craft stores. You can double the thread if you prefer, assuming your bead holes are large enough to take the extra thread. If you use a single strand, you can always go back and go through your beads again if needed.

To add beaded fringe to a cloth object, such as an ATC, quiltie, or scarf, use as much thread as you can comfortably handle. Knot the thread and Start by sewing on a base row of seed beads using one of the methods listed below.

Base Row Stitching Techniques

Back stitch. Pass the needle through the fabric from the back to the front on the edge you are fringing. *String a bead and pass the needle back through the fabric to the left of the bead. Bring the needle back through the fabric to the right of the bead, pass back through the bead and back down through the fabric. Repeat from * with one backstitch per bead to the end of the row. This technique will create a base row that stands out slightly from the work above the edge.
Overhand or Whip Stitch. (1.) Pass the needle through the fabric from the back to the front on the edge you are fringing. (2.)*String a bead, move it to the front of your piece, (3.)going over the edge, (4.) bring the needle through the back to the front, repeat from * to the end of the row.
Blanket Stitch. Pass the needle through the fabric from the back to the front on the edge you are fringing. *String a bead, move it to the front of your piece, hold the bead and thread in place with your thumb, bring the needle through the back to the front just past your bead, tighten the stitch while holding the bead [be sure to pull the thread to the right of the bead before doing the next stitch], repeat from * to the end of the row. Using this stitch will cause your edge to turn under slightly and the bead will "pop" to the edge of the piece.
When you get to the end of the row, you are ready to go back and start the actual fringe.

Simple Beaded Fringe

A simple beaded fringe can then be made with seed beads. This sample starts with a backstitched base row. Starting with the first bead, *string the number of beads you want on your fringe, loop through the last bead strung, go back through all of the other beads, thread back through the opposite site of the base bead, and then thread through the fabric and come back up in the next seed bead on the edge. Repeat from * to the end of the row. Finish off by knotting on the wrong side.

Detail to the left shows thread path coming in from the right, going down through the seed beads, looping through the last bead, and going back up through all the seed beads, going through the right side of the base bead. Then you would sew back through the fabric and come up on the right side of the next base bead to the left.

You may also combine other beads with your seed beads... just do them in the same order for each fringe. This example also shows longer fringes in the center, see instructions below.

Varying the Length of Fringe

Fringe Detail Diagram

To make a fringe that's longer in the middle, use the pattern to the left. The detail is the middle row, each adjacent row is 2 beads shorter [you can also make each row 1 bead shorter if you have a longer area to cover]. The picture shown below is this fringe worked on a beaded cab, but the same holds true for beading an ATC or a Quiltie. I started beading the cab from the center to one end, and then went back to the center and beaded to the other end to help me keep track of which fringe I was on.

Fringe Detail Photo

Overhand Stitch & Peyote Picots

This is edging and fringe made with the overhand or whip stitch [see #2 above]. On the bottom edge, I created a peyote strip three beads wide and then did a 3 bead picot.

To start the peyote strip, after you have done a base row using the overhand stitch, *string a bead, skip a bead on the base row, and go through the next bead. Repeat from * to the end of the row. **Turn your work, and *string a bead, go through the bead strung on the previous row. Repeat from * to the end of the row. Repeat from ** until you get the number of desired rows of peyote stitch.

1st and 2nd Peyote Rows worked off Base Row

Picot Row worked off last Peyote Row

To do a picot, on your last row, *string three beads, go through the bead strung on the previous row. Repeat from * to the end of the row. Finish off by working your way back to the fabric and knotting on the wrong side.

You can also do a 5 bead picot for a more ruffled edge.

Netted Fringe

Another variation on beaded fringe is shown here on this fabric ATC using beaded netting. Start with a base row of blanket stitched beads as #3 above. When you get ready to do the second row, *string 5 seed beads, skip 2 base beads, go through the next bead and repeat from * until you get to the end of the row. Turn, string 5 beads, go through the middle bead in the last set strung on the previous row, *string 5 beads, go through the next middle bead, repeat from * until the end of the row. Continue until you have your fringe as long as you want. Then you can leave the fringe with triangle points, or go back through the last row and add more fringe to each point.

Tips:

Be careful not to split the thread with your needle when you pass back through your beads.
Use a light tension on your thread, so that your fringe will hang and not stick out like spikes.
You can substitute any small bead, such as a dagger bead, leaf or flower, for the last bead in your fringe, to give it a more interesting look (see pic above using a heart bead).
If you are going to vary the lengths of your fringe, be sure your base row has an ODD number of beads. If you are going to make an edging with peyote stitch, make sure your base row has an EVEN number of beads. If you are going to create netted fringe according to these instructions, be sure the number of beads in the base row is divisible by three.
If you are going to end your fringe with a bigger/wider bead, space the base row of beads farther apart, so the end beads will hang properly.
If desired, you can mark intervals on your piece to make placing the base row easier and more even.
You may use charms, shells, found objects, almost anything, in your fringe for interest.
If you run out of thread on your base row, knot it on the wrong side of fabric and start another strand. If you run out of thread during the fringe, you need to start another thread before your first strand ends, work it through the fringe to the ending point, knot the two pieces together and hide in a bead. Or, if possible, knot the thread and start it in the body of your piece and work your way down to the starting point.
Any of the base row stitches can be used to completely edge an ATC or quiltie.