Beading Basics 2: Prepare to Bead!

After gathering your supplies, you need to decide on a design. I use a flocked beading board to lay out my design and keep the beads from rolling all over. These beading boards are fairly inexpensive and can be found in most craft stores. Most are marked with inch measures, and have multiple channels to help with your layout. If you don't have a beading board, it helps to lay down a hand towel to keep those beady critters from escaping! The fun part is playing with your beads until you get a pleasing design. A simple necklace might have a special bead in front, called a focal bead, with matching beads on each side. Alternatively, if you've bought a kit from us, I usually have a picture with a suggested design which you are welcome to copy!

You need to decide how long the necklace will be, and divide this in half to know how much to string before you string the focal bead. For example, if you want to make an 18" necklace, subtract the length of the focal bead and the clasp, and divide the remainder in half. If your focal bead and clasp measure 2", you subtract that from 18", leaving 16", which means you will have to string approximately 8" of beads before stringing the focal bead. 

That really sounds complicated. But if you lay out your design on a bead board, it makes it a lot simpler. 

Beading needles are available in craft stores and typically come in a package of mixed sizes. Use the smallest needle you can for your thread size. I recommend a doubled strand of Nymo, or a similar nylon thread. Do NOT use regular sewing thread because it breaks easily. Measure about 2 1/2 times the length of your necklace. 

It helps to condition your thread with beeswax or Thread Heaven™, because it is less likely to stretch and ravel. Just pull your thread through the beeswax or Thread Heaven™ before threading the needle.

I find that it helps a lot to have a magnifying beading light - especially if you work with the smaller size beads. These are usually available in craft stores as well. You can get a floor model, or one like mine, that clamps on my work table. You can also buy magnifying glasses.

After threading the needle, string a stop bead about 6" from the end of your thread. To do this, slide a large hole, odd color (so you can find it later) bead about 6" from the end of your thread, and go through it again in the same direction. This keeps your beads from slipping off while you are stringing the necklace. And believe me, those beady critters like to slip slide around when you aren't looking!

Stop beads are kind of hard to explain, here is an animation from another site (thanks to Rita Sova for permission to link to her site): 
http://www.bead-patterns.com/animations/5.php

Start stringing your design. When you get done, it helps to string another stop bead on the closing end (leave your needle on), and hold the necklace up to your own lovely neck and gaze on your glorious reflection in a mirror to make sure the design is pleasing and fits well. You may decide to make the necklace longer by adding beads, or change the arrangement of beads or shorten the necklace by removing beads. Each stop bead will slide off and you can make your adjustments before you commit yourself... er, that is commit yourself to finishing!

Wow, look at that! Aren't you proud of yourself? Now, let's go on to Beading Basics 3: Finishing!

Beading Basics 1: Getting Started
Beading Basics 2: Prepare to Bead!
Beading Basics 3: Finishing
Beading Basics 4: More Info
Beading Basics 5: Seed Beads
Beading Basics 6: Beaded Fringe


 

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Please note: these instructions are copyrighted and may not be given, shared, or sold to anyone.  These instructions remain the property of Karleen Page and may not be used to manufacture products for sale. ©2005, Karleen E. Wickham Page, All rights reserved.